Sunday 24 April 2011

A Basic Guide to Campervanning

We arrived in South Island early Friday morning and have already covered quite a lot of ground. Literally. On Friday we drove to Abel Tasman National Park which was very picturesque. Very much 'picture postcard' land. We got a sea taxi around some of the coastline, and saw some seals before bing dropped at one of the beaches so we were able to walk back to the campervan. It was an 8 mile walk. I haven't walked that much in a long time, but actually it wasn't too bad. We did it in just over 3 hours. I like to think that was a record, though in reality probably far from it. We've also visited some caves and a glacier, but the weather has been pretty bad so we didn't actually get to see much of the glacier. Everyone says its 'spectacular' though, so I suppose we'll just have to believe them.

Since this is a campervanning holiday, I suppose I should talk a bit about life on the road. It's great. Really great, as it means we have complete freedom to just take off and leave a place on the spur of the moment if the weather is crap (which we've been doing quite a lot lately). The only time it gets a bit dodgy is when we have to find somewhere to park up for the night. Because we have a toilet and cooking facilities in our van, we are able to freedom camp, i.e park up wherever we like, unless it says otherwise. This has resulted in us staying in a wide variety of places, some lovely, some not so. So since we've arrived, we've stayed in two campervcan sights- lovely but we had to pay, down by a river- free but very cold, a pay and display carpark- that was a bizarre experience- and also a couple of roadsides. On Friday night, we decided to freedom camp on a lay-by on a mountain road, just outside the caves we were planning to visit. When we pulled up, I have to say I was slightly reluctant to stop, as it had all the makings of a horror movie...four girls, alone, on top of a mountain....great. We managed to shake of the fear, although when Vicky and I had to go out to turn the gas supply off, it was quite terrifying...it was literally pitch black . I don't think I've experienced darkness like it before! After that little expedition, our evening of horror took a turn for the worse. At about midnight, a massive storm started. There were gale force winds and torrential rain. At several points throughout the night we genuinely thought the campervan would topple over. We were also worried, because none of us could remember whether we had parked at the edge of a cliff...definitely something you should check before pulling up for the night! We managed to survive the trauma, however the weather has sadly not improved much.

Aside from the occasional scary nights on the streets, the whole campervanning experience is great. It means we can spend whole days in our pyjamas if we like, as a lot of the time we are just driving. We do in fact do this quite a lot. I'm actually surpised at how quickly I've let myself go, especially as the only people I see are the girls I'm travelling with. Most of the places we go are so remote that you're lucky to see a sheep let alone anyone who might judge your hygiene! I stopped wearing make up after the first day, and dry shampoo is my new best friend. I haven't showered in 3 days, and you know what I'm fine with it. In fact, bring on day 4! Judge me all you like, but it's so easy to do! The whole living in pyjamas did get me into trouble last night however. When we arrived at Franz Josef, Vicky and I went in search of a payphone and thought we'd try the pub across the road. Unfortunately it wasn't until I had walked through the door that I remembered I was wearing my pj's, and by that I don't mean a pair of old trackies that could pass for day wear, no I mean polka dots! And to make matters worse, the pub we walked into was really busy and filled with mildly attractive men. Mortifying! We quickly established there was no pay phone, and got out of there... maybe no one noticed?

Anyway, we're on the road for the next few days as we make our way down to Milford Sounds. I cannot actually convey to you all in words how beautiful this country is. All afternoon we've been driving through massive valleys surrounded by huge tree covered mountains, with mist lingering around them. The views are literally breathtaking. I had to give up taking photographs as I just wanted to take one every corner we turned (and the roads are very winding!). It also feels so vast as there popultaion is so small. You can drive for miles without seeing any sign of civiliztion, you meet another car maybe once every twenty minutes and you can drive for a good hour without seeing a road sign. This can be quite disconcerting as often we wonder if we're driving the right way, but most of the time there is only one road we can follow. I expect we'll have maybe more amazing drives over the next few days. I can't wait.

Tuesday 19 April 2011

Land of the Kiwi...fruits?

I arrived in Auckland on Friday and had my first ever hostel experience which was mildly terrifying. When I arrived I was shown to my room (nice but very tiny) where someone was still in bed, which was fine but I didn't really know what to do, so I just grabbed some fresh clothes and darted out the door. I managed to make it into Auckland city centre but realised I had no idea what to do once there as I had left the trusty Lonely Planet Guide behind in my panic to get out of the hostel. Luckily the main tourist attraction in Auckland is very visible- the Sky Tower, which is by far the biggest building in the city. Once at the top the views were amazing, not only of the beautiful landscape, but also of people doing the terrifying Sky Tower drop. This basically involved lowering a poor soul down in front of the viewing tower for everyone to gawk at and holding them there a few moments before dropping them to the ground. Rather them than me! Pretty soon after this I headed back to the hostel and managed to survive the night pretty unscathed.

On Saturday I met up with the girls (Vicky, Lottie and Hannah) and we picked up the campervan- our home for the next three weeks. It was a very exciting moment, well documented with plenty of photos. I'm actually pretty impressed the campervan: much better than I imagined. Its small and compact but surprisingly roomy and fits us all in pretty comfortably. Even the toilet is not too gross, although we had to empty it for the first time yesterday. Not an experience I am looking forward to repeating, though we will have to. I'm definitely learning to love public toilets!

So since we've been in New Zealand we have done a whistle stop tour through North Island. From Auckland we went to Rotoroua- a town famous for its Mauri heritage and thermal springs, which makes it lovely but very smelly. The thermal springs emit a Sulphorous gas which smells of eggs. Delightful. ALthough it is supposed to be very good for your skin. Apparently staying in the town for the day is like having a mini facial!

On Monday we were in Taupo which is home to the biggest lake in North Island (possibly New Zealand? Will have to consult Lonely Planet for this though). Vicky and Lottie did a bungy jump here- the highest water touch bungy in the world. Lottie touched the water, Vicky was fully emersed! Hannah and I refrained from the excitement, instead taking the role of photographers, very unsuccessfully. The weather here has been very unpredictable, much like England. It was freezing yesterday and absolutely tipping it down, which luckily didn't ruin our plans to visit the outdoor thermal pools in the afternoon which were lovely. Today has been brighter and warmer as we've headed to Wellington, but we've been told to make the most of it as the weather is only going to get colder as we head further south. Apparently there is snow in Queenstown already, but hopefully it will be gone by the time we arrive next week. I left England for some sun, but apparently you can escape the country, but you can't escape the weather!

Wednesday 13 April 2011

Big Buddha, Little Buddhas

I’m leaving Hong Kong today for New Zealand. It’s been a fun week, and as I mentioned I was pleasantly surprised at how much I loved the city. I imagine it’s a great place to live and work as there is such a lively atmosphere and it is definitely a city that does not sleep! But with regards to sightseeing one week is definitely enough time to see all the main sights, so in a way I am looking forward to moving onto New Zealand and a new adventure.

So Monday I visited the Peak. I did the very touristy thing of taking the tram up there which is worth doing. It was quite a hairy ride at some points though as the route up there is incredibly steep, but apparently in the whole time it’s been running, I think over one hundred years, there hasn’t been an accident which is good to know! It’s definitely worth it once you get to the top though as the views are stunning. Hong Kong often has quite a hazy atmosphere (I imagine it’s a combination of humidity and pollution) so sometimes is hard to see a great distance from the Peak. Luckily it wasn’t too bad when I went up so I got some good snaps. The size of the sky scrapers and the sheer amount of them still leaves me in awe, even after being here a week. It’s beautiful at night.

On Tuesday I went to Lantau Island and up to the village of Ngong ping, home to the Big Buddha and the Po Lin monastery. Again, I was very touristy and took the cable car up, and again it was so worth it. I did have to queue for over an hour for it though, but the views were amazing. Is definitely not for people who are scared of heights though, that’s for sure, as its 35 minutes of dangling above sea and mountains! Once at the top you can visit the little village, which is obviously set up for the tourist trade with lots of souvenir shops. You can also climb up the steps to the Big Buddha. There are a hell of a lot of steps, but I did it and I think my legs are the better for it. In fact Hong Kong in general is pretty hilly so my legs have has a real work out, that is when I haven’t been using the escalators. Normally where there are stairs there are escalators too, for the very lazy. Sadly not up to the Buddha though. Once at the top, the views are amazing. I was slightly sad though at how touristy this place is. There is actually a restaurant inside the Buddha! How gimmicky! But there were Buddhists visiting, and for them this was probably a real pilgrimage and I imagine it was somewhat ruined by all the people taking photos and posing with Buddha. Also for the monks that live in the monastery. Probably the reason the monastery was built up in Ngong Ping was to be away from all the hustle and bustle of the town below and to live peacefully with nature. That has most definitely been ruined by the easy cable car ride up there! Having said that, it was worth a visit and like I say, I got some great photos which I suppose makes me just as guilty of exploiting this beautiful village!

Yesterday, on my last full day in Hong Kong I went over to some of the markets in Mong Kok on Kowloon. I managed to pick up a couple of bargains at the Ladies Market and even tried out my bartering skills. I say this, but I didn’t have to do much to get the original price knocked down, just say I’d think about it, which makes me think that it wasn’t much of a bargain at all and in fact the price I paid was all it was worth anyway! Still it was fun, although as soon as I started to show some interest in anything, I was pounced on by the stall owner and before I knew it I was entering into some hard bargaining for something I didn’t really want. In the end it was easier to just keep walking.
So it’s been an exciting week in Hong Kong and as I said, although I’ve really enjoyed myself, I’m looking forward to New Zealand. From what people have said its very much like Britain, so hopefully might be like a home from home! I have a feeling I’ll be doing lots of walking, so thank god I bought more sensible shoes before I left. I’m also very much looking forward to the whole ‘campervanning’ experience, although four girls in a rather small space for three weeks may well be a recipe for disaster. I’ll let you know how it goes.

Monday 11 April 2011

"Erm..Do you speak English?"

I’m in Honky!! I arrived four days ago, and after a pretty boring and long flight the adventure really began when I discovered that my mobile phone does not work outside of Britain. Under normal circumstances this wouldn’t worry me too much, in fact I quite like being uncontactable sometimes, however I was supposed to be contacting Natalie, my sister- in- law and host for the week , to arrange a time and place to meet. Panic did set in slightly when I tried to use a payphone, but couldn’t work out how to dial her Hong Kong number (resulting in a hilarious voicemail on her English phone). Thankfully a lovely Chinese man showed me how and I managed to meet up with Natalie fairly easily. Crisis averted.

So impressions of Hong Kong so far: Everything is massive- there are so many sky scrapers – transport is dirt cheap, even taxis, everything is so clean and efficient, especially the MTR (the equivalent of the Tube), and everyone is so friendly. So many people speak English and all signposts and markings are translated into English so it is really easy to get around. I’ve also noticed that there are still a lot of British influences, maybe because there is still a large number of Brits living here. Even the way people dress is very similar to England; none of the mullets and fanny packs you get with the Europeans and Americans.

Another thing I found out pretty soon after arriving is that Hong Kong is party central! Although alcohol is quite expensive here (more so even than in London) it doesn’t seem to stop people drinking and having a good time! On Friday evening Natalie took me to Lan Kwai Fong, an area full of bars in the Mid-levels part of Hong Kong Island. It has a real holiday feel to it, with the party spilling out onto the streets and people wandering from bar to bar. This goes on all night, but despite this there was no drunken brawling and everyone still remained pretty civilised. I think this is characteristic of Hong Kong Island more than the mainland and other parts of Hong Kong as Natalie and I discovered on a little trip to Macau.

We were very excited about our trip to Macau, which felt like a mini holiday, as in order to get there you have to go through passport control before getting on the ferry which meant getting another stamp in our passports- always a good thing. However, when we arrived our excitement lessened when we realised that getting anywhere on the island was going to be hard. No one really spoke English, and people were quite unfriendly (at one point we got kicked out of a taxi in frustration because the driver couldn’t understand what we were saying.)It made me realised how spoilt we were back on Hong Kong Island, and also how ignorant I, and a lot of English people, are when it comes to languages. A lot of the time, I think we assume people will speak English so don’t make the effort to even attempt to learn the language of the country we are in. So, Macau is famous for being the Las Vegas of Hong Kong with many casinos which attract mainly Chinese tourists as gambling is illegal on the mainland. As a result, there were few English tourists unlike on Hong Kong Island. The gamblers here also seem to take it quite seriously, so Natalie and I decided to skip the casinos and hit the old town in search of restaurants and bars instead. Our evening took a turn for the worse when we tramped around the old town looking for a place to eat that was recommended by Lonely Planet. We could not find it anywhere and eventually we were forced to give up and take refuge in a Portuguese restaurant after a creepy man accosted us on a dark street. This actually worked out for the best as the waiter here was very friendly and gave us directions written in Chinese to a good bar area. The evening seemed to pick up again, until we were once again accosted by more creepy men, this time Portuguese and VERY old. When one of them began to tell me he wanted to have a child with me (he was 70, at least) we knew it was time to get out of there! We definitely learnt from this experience that girls should avoid going to Macau without a man present, and preferably take one that speaks Chinese. Despite all this we did actually have quite a lot of fun, though we were definitely thankful to get back to the civilised Hong Kong Island the next day.

I only have three days left before I leave for New Zealand. I have managed to see quite a lot of the Island and taken lots of snaps, and so far it has exceeded my expectations and surprised me in many ways. I didn’t think I would like Hong Kong as much as I do. Hopefully I’ll get over to Lantau Island tomorrow to see the Big Buddha and across to Kowloon tonight for the night markets...I wonder if these trips will be as eventful as the trip to Macau?

Saturday 2 April 2011

It's the Final Countdown

So, three days until I set off on my travels. In some ways this time has come round so quickly, but the last few weeks, however could not have gone slower! I have spent a hell of a lot of time watching television to cope with the boredom of waiting! I got really into The Good Wife, great US courtroom drama series, and once I’d powered through 2 full series’ of that in a matter of days, Gilmore Girls became my life (incredibly guilty pleasure I’m slightly embarrassed to admit).

Despite all this tv watching and general lazing about, I have managed to progress on the travel preparations. I have practiced packing twice (I am a keeno, I realise, but it has made me realise I will definitely need to reassess the clothes situation if I am to avoid sustaining some sort of injury whilst away!), I have had my hair cut in what I hope is whimsical, hippy style- just like the pictures you see in magazines of cool people travelling- and I have been to the dentist so hopefully there will be no need for any emergency dentistry in back of beyond Australia!

Of course, I have been doing some proper preparation as well. I have a rough idea of what I want to see and do in most of the countries I am visiting, based on what people tell me I absolutely must see. So…

Hong Kong: MUST see the Big Buddha (but avoid the charging bull at the bottom, apparently), take a trip on the Star Ferry at night, gamble my spending money away in Macau, check out some of the famous night markets and maybe take a cheeky little trip over the Chinese border to Shenzhen (although I’m still not entirely clear if I need a visa….this trip could have a messy ending!)

New Zealand: MUST do the Coast to coast walk in Aukland, go to Hobbiton, the Lord of the Rings set, aka Matamata, walk the Tongariro Crossing, visit the Franz Josef Glacier and relax at Lake Tekapo. This leg of my trip appears to involve, in my opinion, an unhealthy amount of walking or as the Lonely Planet Guide likes to call it ‘Tramping’ (definitely not what it sounds like) so may have to buy some proper shoes. I don’t think converse will cut it.

Australia: Starting in Melbourne, I am DEFINITELY going to do the neighbours tour, even if it’s for no one else but my superfan Grandma! Then a little road trip along the Great Ocean Road before I hit Sydney. From there I am basically doing the backpackers’ route up the East coast: Byron Bay, Brisbane, Whitsunday Islands and Cairns.

Fiji: MUST lie on a beach for a week.

USA: LA: heard it’s not the nicest bit of California so I’ll try and make friends with the 90210 cast and hit Beverly Hills. If that fails, I’ll probably just lie on a beach again, maybe hit the wineries of the region. Definitely planning a trip to Las Vegas (although according to CSI, there is a high chance that something sinister will happen here), and apparently San Diego is a must see place. Again I might take a cheeky trip over the border to Mexico, although from what I’ve heard, I’m not sure Tiajuana is going to be my cup of tea, but carpe diem, I suppose! Final stop San Francisco: Golden Gate Bridge, and Alkatraz.

By this time I’ll probably be so exhausted from slumming it in hostels for 3 months that I’ll be crying to come home. The thought of it at the moment is actually making me take to my bed to stock up on sleep! Then again, I may actually love life on the road and decide not to come back…unlikely, but you never know.

Anyway, I’ll try and keep you all informed over the next 3 months as to how many of my ‘must sees’ I actually get to see. Bet you can’t wait!